Aşure: an ancient dessert

Noah’s Pudding 

Believed to be one of the oldest desserts in the world, aşure (ah-shoo-ray) is a unique conglomeration of healthy ingredients such as dried fruits, chickpeas, beans and whole grains which are sweetened with sugar and cooked altogether to produce a tasty porridge.  The English translation of this diverse treat is based on an old legend about Noah in the ark. It’s said that after nearly a year onboard the ark food supplies were beginning to dwindle and Noah got creative. He simply combined a bit of everything still onboard in a large pot and cooked it into a thick pudding. The result was so delicious and nutritious that even after the ark landed on Mount Ararat, in eastern Turkey, this dish continues to be made and enjoyed by many. Today, aşure is not just a tasty dessert. It is a symbol of diversity, friendship and unity. A cook never makes just a small portion of Noah’s Pudding. It’s simply not done! It’s a large recipe, cooked in a massive pot and then shared with friends and neighbors.

While aşure can be enjoyed year-round in Turkey, it is especially made and served during Muharram, the first month of the Islamic calendar. On the 10^th day of this month is the Day of Ashura. For all Muslims this is a day of fasting which commemorates two historic events: the day Noah left the ark and the day Moses was saved from the Egyptians by God. For Shia Muslims, Ashura is a solemn day of mourning the martyrdom of Hussein 680 AD.

There is no one true recipe for Noah’s Pudding as it is a very varied dessert based on combining whatever ingredients are on hand in the cupboards. However, below is a recipe that I have found to be delicious and loved by Turks and foreigners alike. Feel free to be creative and add your own personal twists. I didn’t have any fresh pomegranate on hand the day I snapped this picture, but usually I garnish the top of each bowl with fresh pomegranate seeds which adds a snappy taste and flash of color to each portion. If you are living in Turkey during the month of Muharram, be prepared to have several neighbors knock on your door and deliver this special treat. And don’t forget the very important cultural tradition of never returning a dish empty. If a friend or neighbor gives you aşure (or any Turkish food) in a disposable container they don’t expect anything in return. However, if you are presented the food in a nice glass or porcelain dish remember to make your own special treat and return their dish full. It’s an exchange of friendship and community, not just food.

• 3 c. Whole-grain Wheat or Barley
• 4 ¼ c. Boiling Water
• 2 c. Navy or Kidney Beans*
• 2 c. Chickpeas*
• 1 ½ c. Dried Apricot Pieces
• 1 ½ c. Dried Fig Pieces
• ½ c. Rice
• 2 c. Warm Water
• 10-15 Whole Cloves
• 1 c. Golden Raisins
• 1 c. Dried Currents
• 1 zest of Lemon Peel (optional)
• 1 zest of Orange Peel (optional)
• 1 T. Rose Water (optional)
• 1 T. Corn Starch
• 5 c. Sugar
• Walnuts, Hazelnuts or Pine Nuts for garnish (optional)
• Pomegranate Seeds for garnish (optional)
• Shredded Coconut for garnish (optional)

* Traditional Turkish way is to use dried beans and dried chickpeas which is a very long cooking method. Feel free to use canned beans and chickpeas (drained) to speed up the process. I will write out the quick method in the directions. If using dried beans and chickpeas, after a night of soaking, boil until no longer hard, but still rather firm. (I suggest boiling them each separately as cooking times vary.) Once boiled, drain off the cooking water and follow recipe as written below.

1. Begin the night before by soaking the Wheat or Barley in a pot. Pour 4 ¼ cups Boiling Water over top. Bring to a boil for 2 minutes, then turn off and let sit all night.
2. The Wheat or Barley should have soaked up most of the water by the following morning.
3. Stir in drained Beans, Chickpeas, Dried Fruit Pieces, and Rice. Cover with Warm Water. Cook until Fruit is just beginning to soften.
4. Add Cloves, Raisins and Currents. Continue cooking 5 minutes.
5. Stir in your choice of flavoring: either Lemon and Orange Zest or Rose Water.
6. In a small bowl, dissolve Corn Starch with a little Milk. Stir into the pot of pudding.
7. Add the Sugar, stirring to mix while the heat helps it melt and blend in well.
8. Remove the pot from heat and allow to cool before serving in individual bowls.
9. Garnish each bowl with chopped Nuts, Pomegranate seeds and/or shredded Coconut.
10. Either serve at room temperature or refrigerate until needed.